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Transducers: 600 W or 1 kW, frequencies, angles and mounting

The screen gets the glory, but what sees the fish is the transducer. It turns electricity into sound and echo into image, and it decides how deep you reach, how much water you cover and with what detail. This guide gathers data from the Garmin and Airmar catalogue, Lowrance and ONNautic to choose wisely.

Fixed frequencies and CHIRP bands

A fixed transducer transmits on one or two frequencies (50/200, 83/200 or 77/200 kHz). A CHIRP one sweeps a whole band on each pulse and separates targets better: two tuna together, or a fish tight to the bottom. The bands, with small differences between brands:

BandLowranceGarminAirmarWhat for
Low28–51 kHz—28–60 or 42–65 kHzDeep (200–1,000 m), wide or narrow cone by model
Medium85–155 kHz80–160 kHz80–135 kHzThe all-rounder for mid-water and depth: 50–400 m with good detail
High140–250 kHz150–240 kHz130–210 or 150–250 kHzDown to 150 m, maximum detail, separates bait from fish
Scanning455 / 800 kHz455 / 800 / 1,000 kHz—DownScan, SideScan, ClearVü, SideVü: structure and bait, 60–150 m

Lowrance's rule: inshore and mid-water, wide-beam high CHIRP with 300–600 W; deep, narrow-beam low CHIRP and 1 kW. And a Garmin caveat: some fish show better on a fixed frequency than on CHIRP, so it pays to have both.

Schematic of transducer cones by angle and reach by power
Cone and reach. Covered diameter = 2 × depth × tan(angle/2).

The angle: how much water you see

Over 50 m of water a 12° cone covers a 10 m circle; 25°, 22 m; 52°, 49 m. A fish passing 15 m off the boat does not exist for the narrow cone. Narrow = detail and target separation (ideal for vertical); wide = coverage and better-defined arches (ideal for searching). A split screen with both is the skippers' setup.

Power: how deep you reach

Watts do not give fish: they give usable echo deeper and with the boat under way. Catalogue maximum reach (Garmin/Airmar 2025), in salt water and good conditions; in practice count on half to see fish clearly:

ModelPowerFrequencyAngleReachPrice (Spain, 25-09-2026)
TM150M (popa)300 W95–155 kHz26°/17°~230 m≈ 460 €
B619 (pasacascos)500 W77/200 kHz45°/15°~275 m≈ 240 €
B60 (pasacascos)600 W50/200 kHz45°/12°~250–365 m320–460 €
GT15M / GT51M (popa)600 W85–165 kHz24°–13°~550 m290 € / 580–630 €
B75M (pasacascos)600 W80–130 kHz24°/16°~335 m≈ 1.150 €
B75H (pasacascos)600 W130–210 kHz15°/9°~275 m≈ 945 €
TM185M / B175M1 kW85–135 kHz16°–11°~460–520 m1.410–1.490 € / 1.550–1.700 €
B175H1 kW130–210 kHz6°–10°~365 m1.565–1.610 €
TM185HW / B175HW1 kW150–250 kHz25°~150–180 m1.705–1.805 € / —
B175L1 kW40–60 kHz16°–25°~610 m1.700–1.945 €
B265LH / TM265LH1 kW42–65 + 130–210 kHz16°–25° / 6°–10°~915 m2.470–2.580 € / ≈ 1.935 €
R111LH (interior)2 kW38–75 + 130–210 kHz10°×19° / 4°–8°~2.400 m≈ 4.500 $ (EE. UU.; sin precio en España)
CM599LHW1–3 kW28–60 + 150–250 kHz5°×9°–11°×23° / 24°–26°~915 m—

Prices from Spanish shops (Iterin, GPS Náutico, Equiposnauticos, ONNautic), VAT included, for the Garmin or Lowrance/Simrad connector version; the same model changes price with connector and tilt. No visible Spanish distribution: R111LH (US price) and CM599LHW.

Quick read: 600 W covers trolling from 20 to 80 m and bottom to 200 m; 1 kW is the step for jigging and bigeye at 150–400 m, and for holding bottom at 20 knots; 2–3 kW is swordfish boats and bottoms from 800 m on. The maker says it plainly: a badly aimed 1 kW through-hull sees less than a well-placed 600 W.

Mounting

  • Transom (skimmer): the most common. Half the body in the water, away from strakes and prop wash (starboard is better), on a plastic plate so you do not drill the transom. Loses reading with bubbles at speed.
  • Through-hull: the best reading under way and the least noise. Measure the hull deadrise (a phone level will do) and choose the 0° (hull 0–7°), 12° (8–15°) or 20° (16–24°) version, or fit a fairing block. Bronze for fibreglass and wood; stainless for aluminium.
  • In-hull: glued inside a solid fibreglass hull (never cored or wood). No hole, but loses power and gives no temperature or speed.
  • Two transducers: 5–10 cm minimum apart so they do not interfere.

Three typical setups

  1. Inshore trolling (RIB or small boat, 20–80 m): 600 W transom with medium and high CHIRP (GT51M, GT15M or B75M type). Wide cone to search, high to separate bait.
  2. Trolling and jigging (7–10 m boat, down to 250 m): 1 kW medium through-hull (TM185M/B175M) plus DownScan/ClearVü for bait. The setup most trolling and jigging skippers run.
  3. Deep (bigeye, swordfish, 300 m and more): 1 kW low + high (B265LH/TM265LH) or 2 kW in-hull (R111LH), with a display that supports that power.

And live sonar (ActiveTarget, LiveScope, the 1 kW PS70 down to 300 m): good for seeing bait and the reaction to a jig vertically, not for trolling.

How to read what these units draw: fish on the fish finder and how to see tuna on the fish finder.

Sources

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