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Fish finder settings for tuna, menu by menu: Garmin, Lowrance and Simrad

Sounders leave the factory set for the average angler: everything on auto and a clean picture. For tuna, which return little echo and move fast, that is a problem. These are the settings that matter, with their name on each brand and a starting value. Golden rule: change one parameter at a time and, once it works, leave it.

Didactic schematic of tuna marks, bait ball and thermocline on a fish finder
What we want to see: tuna, bait and thermocline. The settings below are meant to keep them from disappearing.
SettingGarminLowrance / SimradStarting value for tuna
GainGain: Auto High / Auto Low / ManualSensitivity / Gain (Auto + offset)Manual or auto +2 to +10. Raise until you see a little grain; over 100–150 m accept noise in the layers you do not fish.
RangeRange: Auto / ManualRangeManual, fixed to your working depth (0–80 m trolling) so the screen does not rescale.
FrequencyFrequency: 50/200, CHIRP Low/Med/High presetsFrequency: 83/200, Medium/High CHIRPSplit screen: medium band (or 50 kHz) on one side, high on the other.
Fish symbolsFish Symbols (4 modes)Fish IDOff. They hide the real shape of the mark.
Real-time echoA-ScopeEcho expanded / A-ScopeOn: tells you whether the fish is under the boat right now.
Noise rejectNoise Reject / InterferenceNoise rejection (low / medium / high)Off unless other boats interfere; it also erases shallow fish.
Surface noiseSurface NoiseSurface clarityOff or low: removes what happens in the first metres.
TVGTVG (Time Varying Gain)—Low. Compensates the weak signal at depth; high cleans too much.
Screen speedScroll Speed / Pic. Advance (1/1 to 8/1)Scroll speedNormal trolling; fast vertical.
Ping speed—Ping speedMedium; raise it with interference or vertical.
ColourColor Gain / Color SchemeColorline / Palette (1–14)Bottom-fill palette (13 on Lowrance) for fish tight to the bottom; no fill to judge hardness. Contrast 70–78%.
Bottom zoomBottom Lock / ZoomBottom zoom (split)Jigging: split screen with the last 20 m above the bottom magnified.
Bottom lineEdge / Depth Line—Edge on: highlights the strongest bottom echo and helps read hardness.

Set-up sequence

  1. Restore factory defaults once, to start from a known point.
  2. Check that the display recognises the exact transducer model; with the generic one, readings are worse.
  3. Fix the range to your working depth and the frequency in split screen.
  4. Raise gain until you see grain; back off one step. Turn off fish symbols, noise reject and surface clarity.
  5. Choose the palette and do not change it: the eye learns colours.
  6. Turn on the A-Scope and, if you fish vertically, bottom zoom.
  7. Save a screenshot of every fish landed with its species and depth.

What no menu fixes

Losing bottom when accelerating, diagonal noise lines or a jumping depth are almost always installation: transducer in bubbles, cable next to the engine's, poor earth or a through-hull at the wrong deadrise. Before touching ten settings, look at the transducer. How to choose and mount it: transducers for tuna.

Sources

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